With the snorkel installed, I spent some time on the alternate intake air bypass. The bypass valve mounts to the side of the snorkel, with a pull cable installed on the panel.

I picked the least-bad spot on the panel for the pull cable. Hopefully I’ll never need to use it, as that indicates the primary air intake or the filter is clogged or blocked.

I put the cable above my Garmin G5 next to the alternate static switch which is also an emergency-only item.

This spot is out of the way and does not conflict with anything on the panel or the canopy.

I then drilled a hole in the sub panel and the firewall and installed the cable passthrough ball things.

The actual intake bypass is is a 2-5/8″ hole. It has a flange that gets riveted to the snorkel, and then the valve is attached to with a nutplate and is secured at the top.

I cut the hole to 2″ and then used my Dremel to widen it to the final size.

I temporarily clamped the flange to the snorkel and drilled the holes. I then prepped the flange for installation. I dimpled the holes and installed the k1000-08 nutplate. I also folded over the top recess to accept the intake door. I then added epoxy and flox to the back of the flange and re-clecoed it to the snorkel.

Once this cured, I sanded the whole snorkel smooth and installed the door with a -8 screw.

I attached the cable to the door using a -8 flat head screw, which was countersunk on the backside of the door, then secured to the cable.

I then took the cable and routed it down under the side of the engine and secured to the engine oil line with an adel clamp.

The bypass is designed to be single use for emergency only, and requires being reset manually once on the ground safely.

With that wrapped up, the snorkel installation is complete!


Leave a comment